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August 16th, 2012

The most haunted place in L.A.

Today I took a trip to visit a location that has obsessed me for years, but that I'd never found before. It was this place:


This is the Park Ranger Headquarters and Visitor Center for Griffith Park, located at the intersection of Griffith Park Drive and Crystal Springs, near the south entrance to the great Los Angeles park. Looks innocent enough - just a quaint little adobe building with a spreading oak out front and a few banana trees. The only giveaway that this building has a history is the plaque located near the door (oddly, there's no walk to the plaque - you just have to tread across the grass to get close enough to read it):

Here's the full text of the plaque:

ADOBE OF THE RANCHO LOS FELIZ

Granted on March 22, 1843 to Maria Ygnacia Verdugo in confirmation of an earlier Spanish concession made to Vicente Feliz in 1795.

Later owned by famous California pioneers Antonio Coronel and James Lick.

Colonel Griffith Jenkins Griffith, in 1882, purchased 4,071 acres of the Rancho. In 1898 he deeded to the city of Los Angeles 3,018 acres of natural mountains and slope land, one of the finest gifts ever presented to a city - Griffith Park.

Presented to the Los Angeles City Department of Recreation and Parks by Los Angeles Parlor No. 124 Native Daughters of the Golden West.

June 30, 1949


So, now we know we have a historic building at least (and yes, I get that this is not the original building, but it's probably fairly similar in construction, design and size to the original). But what makes this lovely little adobe so haunted?

For that, I will direct you first to a 1930 book called On the Old West Coast: Further Reminiscences of a Ranger, by Horace Bell. Bell was an interesting character - he'd once run a satirical paper in L.A. called The Porcupine - and he'd collected some of the oddest tales of old L.A. Chapter Nine of On the Old West Coast is titled "The Feliz Curse", and details the haunted history of this very spot. It centers around an event in 1863, when - according to Bell - the 17-year-old girl, Petranilla de Feliz, who was set to inherit the land from the recently-diseased Don Antonio Feliz, discovers the Don has left a will giving the large family estate to two lawyers. Imagine the adobe then, possibly looking more like this, as the furious young Petranilla arrives there:
Petranilla delivers this curse:

"Señor, do not dare to speak until I have finished! This is what I hurl upon your head: Your falsity shall be your ruin! The substance of the Feliz family shall be your curse! The lawyer that assisted you in your infamy, and the judge, shall fall beneath the same curse! The one shall die an untimely death, the other in blood and violence! You, señor, shall know misery in your age and though you die rich your substance shall go to vile persons! A blight shall fall upon the face of this terrestrial paradise, the cattle shall no longer fatten but sicken on its pastures, the fields shall not longer respond to the toil of the tiller, the grand oaks shall wither and die! The wrath of heaven and the vengeance of hell shall fall upon this place and the floods - !"

Here the inspired Petranilla swung round and stepped to the end of the veranda until she could see the sun sinking in the west beyond the Tejungas.

"See!" she cried with a far-flung gesture. "Behold! Cast your glance toward the dark entrance of the great Cañon of the Tejunga, and what do you see? Ha! ha! a myriad demons floating in air like so many vultures! They ride the storm clouds, and ay! they are lashing the clouds as the vaqueros lash the cattle to bring them together! Now the air darkens, the thunder rolls, the lightning flashes, the rain falls - ha! ha! the rain falls in torrents! Bowlders grind and crash, the demons ride the crest of the storm, they lash it into fury, it is coming - coming - coming! Ay, see! It has struck our willow dale, my old playground - it crumbles away into the great seething torrent! Now the royal oak is gone! See what the lightning flashes reveal at the base of the mountains - they reveal the oaks withering in the tongues of flame - their bright green leaves are scorched to cinders - because they were above the reach of the waters it is the fire from the clouds that has destroyed them. Woe, woe, woe to you and yours, señor! The meadows are gone, only the hills remain the mere bones of the rancho, and no man shall ever enjoy peace or profit from what is left of this once beautiful spot! Misfortune, crime and death shall follow those who covet these remains!"

Bell has Petranilla then collapse and die shortly thereafter. We know that in fact Petra was real, and lived far past 1863...but amazingly, the cursing itself may have been an actual event (Bell's florid recreation notwithstanding), since it's been described by others as well as Bell, including at least one person who claimed to be an eyewitness. For the next forty years this plot of land did indeed fall victim to floods and fires, while the owners were murdered and debt-ridden (contrary to the rosy picture painted on the plaque, Griffith probably gave the land to the city because it wasn't worth the property taxes he was paying on it - no one wanted to rent or buy the land, possibly thanks to the belief that the curse was real).

Bell goes on to describe workers encountering the ghost of Don Antonio, and he also describes at length a scene (probably nothing more than a satirical fantasy) in which Griffith hands the land over to the city officials during a party that, at midnight, is beset by demons and devils.

Is it any wonder, then, that this story and this seemingly benign little building have obsessed me for years?

I only recently stumbled across the fact that the building still stood, commemorated by the plaque, and it was only today that I located it. It's a lovely area, and one can imagine a young woman's rage on discovering that this land - which she'd believed would always be in her family, thanks to their status as guards of the original settlers in Los Angeles - has been taken from her. I've always thought the ghost stories were wrong; it wouldn't be Don Antonio's vengeful spirit wandering the park, but Petranilla's, her fury keeping her rooted in place for eternity.

Yes, I've written about this. No, the novel - Malediction - hasn't been published yet. But if it ever is, and if you read it, I hope you'll remember this and maybe even visit the Feliz adobe. And if you encounter any ghosts, please let me know.